Cape Reinga is a sacred place for the Māori. It’s where the spirits of the dead start their long journey back to the legendary homeland. It feels like the edge of the world. It’s (almost) the northernmost point of New Zealand, and the views from the cliffs are insane. The Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean crash into each other right in front of you, and that tiny white lighthouse on the edge just completes the whole picture.
It’s easy to find a parking spot, where there are also pretty clean public toilets as I recall. The walk is really easy with mixed hard roads and gravel.
“Pōhutukawa and rātā hold a prominent place in Maori mythology. Legends tell of the young Maori warrior, Tawhaki and his attempt to find help in heaven to avenge his father’s death. He subsequently fell to earth and the crimson flowers are said to represent his blood.
Possibly the most famous pōhutukawa in Maori legend is a small, wind-beaten tree clinging to the cliff face near Cape Reinga. The 800-year-old tree is reputed to guard the entrance to a sacred cave through which disembodied spirits pass on their way to the next world.
Rātā was often respected for its immense size, which provided, among other things, shelter for weary travellers.”
(information from the nz website of the department of conservation)
After that, we drove on to the giant sand dunes. And no joke — giant means GIANT. Within 200 meters you go from dense forest to massive sand hills to the open sea. It’s a super sharp contrast and kind of messes with your head. Once you walk a bit into the dunes, it really feels like you’re in the Sahara Desert. You could rent bodyboards to slide down the dunes, which looked fun — but with a full month of skiing ahead, we weren’t exactly rushing to go sand-sledding 😉.
The drive back south was maybe the best part. The views are breathtaking the whole way, but the real kicker: we took a detour down 90 Mile Beach. Yep, you can drive on the beach for miles. Officially, it’s 4WD only. Which we didn’t have. Obviously.
Still, I managed to talk Maxje into giving it a shot with our van under one strict rule: never ever ever stop.
I’d recommend to check the tides beforehand, and looking for exits on google maps/google earth.
Was it sketchy? Absolutely.
Was it a dumb idea? Probably.
Was it worth it? Hell yes.
One of those slightly reckless decisions that somehow works out, and ends up being one of the best memories.
Enjoy the views and the cute sheep on your way back south!
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