The Tongariro crossing: our experience

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is often described as one of the most beautiful day hikes in the world. With volcanic landscapes, emerald lakes, and panoramic views, it’s easy to see why.

The Basics

• Location: Tongariro National Park, North Island, New Zealand
• Ranked the #4th most beautiful day hike IN THE WORLD
• Distance: ~19.4 km (one-way)
• Time: 6–8 hours
• Highest point: Red Crater – 1,886 m
• Toilets: there are multiple toilets on the way, constantly emptied by helicopters.
• Transport: Most people take a shuttle from the campsite (there is just one, affordable!) to the Mangatepopo car park (start) and hike to Ketetahi (end), where another shuttle picks you up. We used the most common shuttle used to get there, this will set you back 65 NZD per person: https://tongarirocrossingshuttles.co.nz/
• On a budget: you can try to get to the car park at the crossing itself, walk up to the emerald lakes and walk back. The problem is that, if you park for longer than 4 hours, you can get fined. We met multiple people that did this without problem though.

This hike isn’t a loop — it’s a full traverse through a dramatic volcanic zone. Expect steep climbs, loose gravel, unpredictable weather, and stunning views.

Our Experience

What a walk. I’m still recovering as I write this.

After a restless night (standard vanlife), we dragged ourselves out of bed to catch the 8:30 AM shuttle. We were skeptical. Would it live up to the hype?

We started the hike on a neatly built wooden boardwalk winding through raw, black volcanic terrain. To our left, we had a clear view of Mount Ngauruhoe (aka Mount Doom for the Lord of the Rings fans). Twenty minutes in, it hit me: I forgot to put my insoles in my hiking boots. Classic. I paid the price later — ankle agony.

The ascent began gently, then steepened quickly. After a grueling push, we reached the ridge at the red crater and were rewarded with jaw-dropping views of the valley.

From there, it was about 40 more minutes to the emerald lakes. The most famous view of the Tongariro national park. The lakes are holy to the Maori, so please be respectful and don’t touch the water. The ground was pure loose gravel (hence the need for good hiking shoes), I saw multiple people slipping and falling, but don’t worry it’s not that steep.

We found a spot to have lunch. Max, ever prepared, forgot a knife — so lunch was just bite-of-bread, bite-of-cheese, repeat.

After lunch, we descended to the larger Blue Lake. Don’t forget to look back now and then, the view from here is also beautiful.

The final stretch curled around the ridge and down, leading into a long descent. A dry, empty steppe unfolded around us. The descent is really long, and boring at times. The final hour, you’ll walk in a forest, ending at the parking space where the shuttle can pick you back up. We had to wait for an hour.

Back at the van: glorious shower, heavenly dinner.

Would I recommend the Tongariro Crossing? Absolutely. Just don’t forget your insoles. Or a knife.